Pantelleria, part of the province of Trapani, is one of the southernmost spots in Europe, just thirty miles from Africa. Like so many Sicilian islands, it was formed by two volcanic eruptions. You get there either by plane from Palermo or by boat from Trapani (about four hours). When arriving by boat, you come into the port where the town of Pantelleria is located. Most of the buildings are not very old, having been re-built after World War II bombings. The castle of Barbacane is probably the only pre-World War II building left. There are eleven villages and many scattered houses - most of them sporting the thick square walls and domed roofs left behind by the Moors who ruled here for 400 years and gave the island its name. But few people come here to admire art and architecture. It is the wild beauty, the dramatic coastline, the incredibly pristine water, the abundance of caves, coves, grottos and inlets, that draw a small but intensely loyal group of visitors to this quiet outpost.